Small Bites

People who already love Polpettina know it can be a hard place to get a table, and they’re willing to wait.

Still, we can’t help but trumpet this cozy, 18-seat restaurant — part pizzeria, part Italian restaurant, part neighborhood bistro and part small plates bar — even if that means adding to the crowds. Because Polpettina is the kind of place where everyone loves to go.

It’s welcoming for families with small kids, man enough for guys night out, intimate enough for girls night out, entertaining enough for a first date and romantic enough for date night. People know tables are few, but big groups show up anyway, willing to wait their turn to joyfully pass carafes of wine while sharing plates of juicy meatballs, crispy thin-crust pies and expertly prepared pastas and entrees.

The restaurant, down a winding street between Post Road in Eastchester and the Crestwood train station, feels like an old barn transplanted to Brooklyn. Reclaimed wood lines two walls, bricks line a third and the fourth is a glass storefront window, looking out to the street. A few cookbooks decorate two small shelves, a couple of flat-screen TVs play sports, and Edison bulbs hang above a granite bar. There are five tables.

The center of the restaurant is a giant Baker’s Pride pizza oven — the same kind you see in strip-mall pizza joints all around the country. And therein lies the genius of Polpettina. Pizza nerds from here to Naples claim that expensive coal- and wood-fired ovens imported from Italy are the key to bubbling pies with perfectly charred crusts. All Polpettina needs is a good dough, good sauce, homemade cheese and a lot of heat.

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Crabtree Kittle House’s new restaurant going into the Hudson Harbors space in Tarrytown is more than just a place to dine. There will also be a market, a wine and spirits store and a to-go menu that will include pizzas made in the restaurant’s wood-fired oven.

The restaurant’s menu will focus on Hudson Valley products—produce, meat, wine, spirits, beverages and dry goods—and the market will offer fresh fish, meat and produce; dairy products; artisanal breads and cheeses, and prepared foods to go.

“We are very excited about the project and to be working with National Re/sources and to be a part of the beautiful new Hudson Harbor community”, Glenn Vogt, who will be the managing partner of the new operation, said in a press release. “The Tarrytown location, just north of the Tappan Zee Bridge, is the gateway to the Hudson Valley. We want to be the showcase for local producers of food and beverage products and for the many farmers located throughout the Hudson Valley who are growing and raising produce and livestock naturally, organically and sustainably.”

From the press release:

The restaurant is projected to seat 150 guests with an outdoor terrace that can seat 100. It will feature a large full service bar, a wood burning pizza oven and a communal table.

The wine and spirits store will focus on local producers and others from around the world that are practicing the philosophy of bio-dynamic farming and viticulture – a natural, sustainable form of agriculture and a philosophy that has been a feature of the world-famous and award-winning wine program at Crabtree’s Kittle House for many years. “We feel that the world has been turning and heading in this direction for a while now. It’s all about eating better and healthier and leaving the earth in better condition after each harvest,” Vogt says, “and we want to be part of this exciting movement and provide an outlet to the producers and the consumers who feel the same way about it as we do.”

The projected opening date is Fall 2012.

I’ll keep you updated as the project develops.

Club Car in Mamaroneck, which opened in March, has joined the short list of Westchester restaurants that have taken over renovated train stations. But what a renovation!

The soaring space, which dates to 1888 and is the second oldest depot on the New Haven line, is built in the Romanesque Revival style — a monument to the grandeur of the past. Standing by the hostess area, you can’t help but overhear the words “stunning, “gorgeous” and “wow” from people walking in the door for the first time. With a shimmery tin ceiling (not the original but close), glittery chandeliers, a massive fireplace and tons of intimate seating areas, the space is spectacular.

Chef Brian MacMenamin, who owns the restaurant with wife, Fatima Rabbani-MacMenamin, takes considerable pride in the new look, which took five months to complete.

“You wouldn’t believe the layers and layers of paint and grime that had been here,” he says. “Even the fireplace was covered.” The building had been partially condemned and in disarray for years.

The former waiting area has been incorporated into a stunning rectangular room, divided into a tavern area on the left and a larger dining room to the right. The “Mad Men”-vintage bar uses the old station ticket windows as its backdrop.

Those who remember MacMenamin from his days at the helm of New Rochelle’s MacMenamin’s Grill will feel some familiarity with the menu, which is heavy on beef and chops, albeit with locally sourced ingredients and a global flair. There’s panko-and-mint-crusted lamb chops, center-cut Chateau Briand filet mignon, bone-in New York sirloin and roasted loin chop pork.

And while the food is serious — MacMenamin calls it “modern American with a retro touch” — he’s also got a lighter side. “If there were three things I’d want people to know it’s that we’re about food, service and fun, in that order,” he says.

A few more photos, after the jump.

Like Cinderella, at the stroke of midnight, the place is transformed. It turns into a sophisticated nightclub and lounge, with DJs, bands and entertainment that showcases a range of acts including flamenco dancers and a girl who eats fire, all with no cover charge.

Club Car is also available for private parties– it’s booked for a couple of bar/bat mitzvahs already. The restaurant recently opened for lunch and offers a Sunday brunch buffetwith a raw bar, omelet station, pasta station, antipasti station, carving station, Viennese dessert table and more (it costs $36; $15 additional for bottomless mimosas and Bloody Marys).

Jeanne Muchnick

Details: 1 Station Plaza, Mamaroneck, 914-777-9300, http://www.clubcar ny.com. Lunch: 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday; Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday, 5-11 p.m. Thursdays, 5-midnight Friday and Saturday; Lounge hours midnight to 4 a.m.; 11 a.m.-3 p.m. for Sunday brunch.

 

I’ll Take ‘Notorious Pirates/Beer-Loving Fishermen/Fearless War Heroes’ For a Thousand, Alex

Whether they’ve learned it from their tour of the brewery or gleaned it from the website, most people in the tasting room seem to know that Captain Lawrence Brewing was named for Captain Lawrence Drive—the South Salem, NY street where founder Scott Vaccaro was raised and, more importantly, learned to brew beer.

Much less known is who the street is named for.

In fact, Captain Lawrence is an American war hero. So, in the spirit of Memorial Day, I posed a pop quiz to those in the tasting room, to find out who knew what about this historic figure.

“I looked it up,” said Vinnie Crodelle of Harlem as he sips the Freshchester Pale Ale with Ryan Van Buren of Newburgh. “I should know this.”

“Captain Lawrence was a general,” continues Crodelle, who works for the DEP and is an aspiring professional fisherman. “Spanish-American War…No, French-Indian War.”

The buzzer sounds. Alas, the Captain was not a general, and did not fight in those wars.

Van Buren steps to the plate; if his historic name is any indication, perhaps he knows his history.

“Captain Lawrence was a Revolutionary War hero,” Ryan says.

So far, so good.

“He led George Washington upstate. Washington was unfamiliar with the area, so Captain Lawrence escorted him around.”

The buzzer buzzes again. On we go.

Around another barrel, Andrew Hrabsky of Putnam Valley and Erica Dziato of Ossining have much different notions of Captain Lawrence. “Captain Lawrence was a notorious pirate,” says Andrew. “He roamed the Caribbean.”

Erica goes nautical with her guess too. “A beer loving fisherman,” she says, and coiner of the phrase “There’s plenty more fish in the sea.”

The pair gets a few Liquid Gold samples as parting prizes, and I venture on.

Though she’s several tables away, Tania Barclay of New Rochelle seems to have glimpsed the same cheat sheet as Andrew. “A pirate…a badass pirate,” she says. “He had one eye…Stabbed in the other eye with a beer bottle.”

Ouch. And, uh, no.

Next up is a large group of fresh faced visitors around another table. Captain Lawrence was very definitely not “Captain Crunch’s long list brother,” but a sincere thank you to Audrey Smith of Tuckahoe for that guess.

Her friend Christiana Lloyd, a student from Waxahachie, Texas (try saying that after a few samples of Imperial IPA), gives it a whirl.

“He was in the Navy,” she says. “Some war—I can’t remember which.”

Christiana closes her eyes, deep in concentration.

“Captain of the USS Chesapeake!” she says. “War of 1812!”

She’s the least wrong of anyone so far. In fact, Christiana has identified Captain James Lawrence, who did, in fact, captain the Chesapeake, and implored his fellow seamen, “Don’t give up the ship!” while fighting the Brits in the War of 1812. He died from his wounds following that battle and is buried in Manhattan.

“My father was a random facts guy,” Christiana explains. “He watched a lot of History Channel.”

Captain James Lawrence did a lot of great things, but does not, in fact, have a brewery named after him.

I wander over to Gary and Leeanne Boone, a pair of self described “nomads” from Detroit who, after retiring from Ford, sold their home last year and hopped in their RV, using Brewing News to find the best local breweries, and documenting their travels on boonedocksllc.blogspot.com.

So who’s Captain Lawrence? Gary mentions “Don’t give up the ship!” which he and Leeanne had seen inscribed on a wall at the Naval Academy in Annapolis a few weeks before on their travels.

Again, not the right Captain Lawrence.

They keep trying. Back on Lake Michigan, Gary and Leeanne explain, they knew a local character who was a sea captain and brewed beer. He was known as Captain Steve.

“We figured Captain Lawrence, like Captain Steve, went through the process of being a sea captain, and happened to be a home brewer too,” says Leeanne.

Her tongue is planted firmly in her cheek as she sips her Kolsch. See, she and Gary, who sports a crisp white Spam t-shirt as he samples a Brown Ale, have this road game they play called “gator tails”—or perhaps it’s “gator tales”—where they amuse each other by making up preposterous stories to explain various things they pass.

I break the news that Captain Lawrence was not, in fact, a beer brewing sea captain.

In fact, Samuel Lawrence was a captain in the Westchester County Militia during our war for independence, and is said to have faced off against the Brits in a bloody, and vital, battle in Ridgefield, Connecticut in 1777. He’s buried at Mead Cemetery in Lewisboro—a few miles from the street that bears his name, and a little bit more from the brewery that does as well.

So next time you’re hoisting a glass of hearty Captain Lawrence, raise one for intrepid Captain Lawrence as well.

—Michael Malone (malone5a@yahoo.com)

Captain Lawrence Brewing, at 444 Saw Mill River Road in Elmsford, is open Tuesday through Friday (retail 2-7 p.m., samples 4-7 p.m.); and Saturday, with retail and samples 12-6 p.m., and brewery tours at 1, 2, 3 and 4 p.m. The author is paid by Captain Lawrence, partially in beer, for “Notes From the Tasting Room.”

 

 

The weather is finally consistently warm and the indoor
markets are closing this week, our home garden is blossoming. We have had a
fulfilling crop of summer radishes and turnips. One of the ingredients that is
a staple in my kitchen particularly for quick sautéing is Ginger.

Not surprisingly another versatile spice that is popular in a lot of Asian Cuisines, including an Indian table. I personally do keep powdered ginger handy for occasional baking recipes but almost always prefer fresh ginger. Fresh ginger or ginger root is the root or rhizome of the ginger plant.

I have had the best luck with ginger in Asian grocery stores such as Kam Sen or of course the newly opened H Mart. It is important to try and find ginger that is not very fibrous and this can be usually detected by ginger that has a smooth skin and is not very dry to touch. I buy ginger in generous quantities as it keeps well in the refrigerator. Peeled and grated ginger can also be frozen and keeps well this way. To get the right texture for most Indian cooking, I peel the ginger and use a nice micro plane grater for grating. This serves a dual purpose of processing and removing unwanted fibers.

I am not sure where I picked up a pack of fresh and fruity organic blueberries. I used them for a sauce for some medium sized scallops
that I had picked up. The entire dish was put together in a very short period of time. I baked the sauce, while I seared the scallops and then combined them together with some finely chopped basil. I have used medium sized scallops
here, because that is what I found this weekend at the store. I would however highly recommend the large scallops if you can get a hold of them. What caught my attention was how prominent the ginger was in this recipe and felt that this would be an amazing way to show case both ginger and the welcome fruit of summer.

I have found the pairing of ginger with berries works well for a savory and sweet compliment. I have a chutney that I make with the same combination.

Sumac Seared Scallops in a Blueberry Ginger Sauce

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients

 For the scallops

1 pound of medium or large scallops

½ teaspoon sumac

½ teaspoon raw cane sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

For the Blueberry Sauce

½ cup fresh blueberries

2 teaspoons freshly grated ginger

½ teaspoon raw cane sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground coriander

To garnish

1 tablespoon finely chopped basil

Method of Preparation

1. To prepare the scallops, make sure that they are very dry, I was them and blot them out on a lot of paper towels. I shall definitely
tell you that paper towels are one of my non-green vices, but they work.

2. Toss the scallops in the sumac and the sugar.

3. In an oven proof dish add the blueberries, ginger, cane sugar, salt and the ground coriander and toss lightly.

4. Heat the oven to 400 degrees and place the dish in the oven.

5. In a large flat skillet, heat the oil and the butter on medium heat for at least one minute.

6. Carefully place the scallops on one side in a single layer with some space between each scallop.

7. Cook for 3 minutes and turn and repeat on the other side for about 4 minutes on the other side. The scallops should turn golden and turn
just a little golden on each side.

8. Check on the blueberries, which should have popped and have formed a bubbling sauce.

9. To serve spread the sauce on the place and place about 5 scallops per person. This should be about 3 to 4 scallops if using the large
variety.

10. Sprinkle with basil leaves before serving.

I shall be telling about more ways to use ginger, in partnership with other spices, so tell me do you have a favorite way to use this spice.

Rinku Bhattacharya, is a daytime financial professional, who spends the rest of her time immersed in food. Rinku is the author of the blog, Cooking in Westchester, where she shares her life experiences, and original recipes that combine Indian spices with produce from her backyard and local farmers markets. Rinku is blessed with a gardener husband, who always surprises her with a prolific and fresh supply of produce to keep her creative instincts flowing. Rinku has been teaching recreational cooking classes for the past six years, and has found her classes a great way to learn and connect.

Her cookbook the Bengali Five Spice Chronicles, is scheduled to be published in November 2012. Rinku can be found on facebook, twitter and pinterest.

 

 

For an upcoming story on food trucks, we want to know your favorite spots. We’d like to know about those hot dog trucks, sure, but what we’re really looking for are the trucks that are doing something out-of-the-ordinary.

Let me know and we might feature your favorites in the paper!

The owners of the Birdsall House are opening an artisanal pizza restaurant called Gleason’s in Peekskill in August.

The restaurant will serve pizzas and flatbreads made with a sourdough pizza dough created with yeast propagated from New York state beer, most likely from Captain Lawrence Brewing Co.

The menu will also have pasta of the day (or week, maybe) as well as small plates. There will be eight draft lines for craft beers, and, says John Sharpe, one of the owners, “we are certainly going to step up the wine program on this one.” (He mentioned cocktails, too!)

The partners—Sharpe, Tim Reinke, Bryan Delaney and Damian Collemo—named the restaurant after Jackie Gleason, who had a house in Peekskill. The building was for many years a place called Miller’s, and Sharpe says Joe Namath was a regular.

“We have to assume that if Joe Namath was hanging out there that Jackie stopped by a couple of times,” laughs Sharpe.

There is a 1940s bar in the restaurant—“old bars seem to find Tim and I,” says John—but there is little more worth saving. So unlike Birdsall House, which was renovated to its former glory, Gleason’s will have a more contemporary and classic look. They are still working out design details, but they are considering a tin ceiling in the bar area and a more modern feel for the dining room.

Sharpe, Reinke and Delaney also own the Blind Tiger Ale House in Manhattan.

You can keep up with the progress on the Gleason’s blog here: http://www.gleasons-peekskill.com/blog/

The first time I went to Alain’s Bistro in Central Nyack, I knew I liked the food, at least what I could taste of it. I was pregnant at the time, and delectable and delicious dishes like salads with runny eggs, pate and foie gras were a no-no. (“No offal!” my doctor told me. Did he realize he was talking to a food writer?!)

This visit, things were different. I went with a big group of people and got to try most everything the menu. We had classic dishes such as mussels, frisee aux lardons, roast chicken, and yes, pate and foie gras terrine. (Yes, we splurged a bit.)

Our visit was well timed, too. Soon, Alain will open Alain’s Express, a to-go spot in downtown Nyack where you can get sandwiches, salads and prepared foods to take home for dinner. If the food there is anything like it is at the restaurant, it will be a great addition to Nyack.

For our meal, the food was all good, and mostly great. Alain’s is the kind of place you might forget about because it’s off the beaten path a bit. But don’t. Make a reservation. It’s the closest thing we’ve got to Paris in Rockland County.

More, after the jump.

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Defining moments often happen at the most innocuous of places. For Scarsdale resident Jennifer Deutsch, it was sitting at her kitchen table. Doodling on a paper towel while chatting with her kids, she sketched out her dream for a wine bar. The swirling-with-vino glass she drew is now the logo for Crush, which opened in Larchmont in March.

Deutsch admits it took her kids’ urging — along with a strong desire to leave corporate America where she’d long worked in financial services — to take the plunge and open her own business. But it’s a business she knows well, having run a wine-distributing company (in addition to her day job) in Charlotte, N.C., for many years.

Her goal with Crush: To create a place that’s an alternative to dinner, where you can enjoy good food and wine.

 

Photos by Tania Savayan/TJN

More after the jump.

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Oh how I wish there was a Cooked & Co near me. Or maybe I don’t! Because I’m powerless to resist the food there. I couldn’t help but order a ga-zillion things last time I was in: Nutella muffins, chive-and-ramp frittata, steak sandwich — and that’s just lunch. I took home dinner, too.

Cooked & Co opened in late April on Garth Road in Scarsdale, and it’s been humming along ever since. And no wonder. First off, the food is great, yes. Here’s that nutella muffin, which also has banana and hazelnuts. Man, oh man.

But the space is also beautiful. It’s got an industrial-chic look that still manages to feel airy and light.

The display case goes down one side of the shop, with a coffee bar and a refrigerated case on the other.

A banquette with vintage-looking pillows lines the front window, which looks out onto the street.

;

More food and photos, after the jump.

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On first trip to Mexico (ah, back when I was just barely a teenager!) I was introduced to many experiences, including new flavors and ingredients: Jícama was one of them. I’d be lying if I said it’s since been in my repertoire. It’s one of those things that I recently rediscovered and, I’m happy to report, that these days I’m a full-fledged jícama fan.

You’ve probably seen this root vegetable before, but maybe you assumed it was its unrelated relative: the turnip.

It’s available it many of our local markets (including Viva Grande on Huguenot in New Rochelle) and  I hope I can now get you to stop, pick up, and purchase—as I promise that this little baby will add another dimension to your salads!

In flavor, jícama (pronounced HEE-cah-mah) is perfect marriage of apple, cucumber, and water chestnut—and it’s crispy-sweet, and  thirst quenching. They’re usually about 4 to 8 inches in diameter, but range in weight from about half a pound, to wow, 6 pounds.   Oh—another of Jicama’s nice qualities: it can be enjoyed cooked (great in a stir-fry dish) or raw. In fact, in Mexico, it’s not uncommon to see people eating jícama with a sprinkle of fresh lime juice and chili powder  or hot pepper.

This colorful and tasty slaw is perfect for summertime barbecues! Also, you can make the yogurt sauce the night before you make the slaw. And finally friends, and yes this is the mom in me, it’s good for you!

The recipe, after the jump.

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Exciting news from the White Plains Library! John T. Edge, an award-winning food writer one of the foremost authorities on Southern cuisine, will be at the library 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Sunday, June 10 for “Food for Thought: The Food Truck Comes to the Library” to benefit the White Plains Library Foundation.

Edge will discuss his latest book, The Truck Food Cookbook: 150 Recipes and Ramblings from America’s Best Restaurants on Wheels (Workman Publishing, New York, 2012), in which he celebrates the ever-exploding truck food scene. There will also be food truck-themed hors d’oevures and a silent auction.

Edge’s bio, and more information on the event, after the jump.

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Chas Anderson likes to say he’s hard-wired for the restaurant business. His paternal grandfather worked for The 21 Club in New York City and his maternal grandparents were French chefs. “Being a restaurateur is in my blood,” he says.

And so, thanks to good timing — Martini & Chocolates in Eastchester was closing just as he was scouting for a restaurant location — he’s now the proud chef-owner of Burrata Wood Fired Pizza, an authentic Neapolitan style eatery specializing in the artisan techniques of Italy.

Photos by Mark Vergari/TJN. More photos, and more of Chas and his story, after the jump.

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When my husband and I go out for a meal we have one main objective:  find a place where both the vegan and the omnivore can enjoy a good meal.  One way to do that is to go to Manhattan where vegan and vegetarian restaurants abound.  Another is to find creative chefs in Westchester who can accommodate both the plant-based diner and the meat-eater.  I wrote about our terrific experiences at Haven, Sweet Grass Grill and Zitoune here on Small Bites during Hudson Valley Restaurant Week 2012 and more recently interviewed the vegan-friendly chef of Haven Restaurant in Pleasantville.

Turquoise in Larchmont – a restaurant we have frequented for many years – is another great option for the “mixed-diet” couple.

The Turkish decor at Turquoise is vibrant, lush and inviting. The friendly proprietor, Emin Acar, is almost always at the door greeting customers as they arrive for lunch or dinner.  My biggest problem at Turquoise is avoiding the temptation to fill up on the wonderful starters brought to the table which include warm pita, olives in their oil (perfect for dipping the pita), and a flavorful humus.

At Turquoise for dinner last month the meat-eater in this couple ordered the grilled calamari to start; I reviewed the ten vegan meze (appetizer) options and went with the fresh, crunchy Ezme salad.

This salad, with simple ingredients of finely chopped fresh tomatoes, onions, parsley and walnuts, has a wonderful spicy kick.

While my husband ordered the Iskender Kebab (thinly sliced lamb prepared Turkish-style over sliced, warm pita bread with a touch of tomato sauce and yogurt on the side) I reviewed the vegetarian section of the menu (six items, four are vegan and one can be ordered vegan) and requested one of my favorite dishes at the restaurant, the Turquoise a la Turka.

Lightly steamed vegetables with a crunch are delightful!  This dish includes okra, eggplant, white beans, mushrooms and broccoli and is served with couscous.

The portions are incredibly generous at Turquoise and I almost always leave with leftovers that are perfect for lunch the next day. The food at Turquoise is consistent and the variety of vegan options keeps me coming back.

Turquoise
895 Palmer Avenue
Larchmont, NY 10538
(914) 834-9888

I Eat Plants columnist JL Fields blogs about her transition to a vegan diet and lifestyle at JL goes Vegan: Food & Fitness with a Side of Kale. Her original recipes have been featured on Foodbuzz, BlogHer and Meatless Monday. She is the editor of the community blog Stop Chasing Skinny: Find Happiness Beyond the Scale.   JL is the founder and lead consultant for JL Fields Consulting.  She serves on the board of directors of the Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary and the advisory board of Our Hen House.  Follow JL on Twitter and Facebook.

 

Liz did me the honor of carrying a version of my Sunday blog post about David Wondrich’s cocktail seminar in today’s print editions of The Journal News.

Print readers had the benefit of receiving adaptions of Wondrich’s recipes. Here they are for Small Bites readers:

Traditional punch

Ingredients

» 5 lemons
» Sugar
» 2 bottles Jameson 12 Aged Irish Whiskey
» 1/2 bottle Madeira
» 1 quart lemon juice
» 1 1/2 quarts water
» Freshly ground nutmeg

Directions

Peel the lemons and place them in a bowl. Cover lightly with sugar and muddle them. Allow to mascerate while you prepare the rest of the punch.

In a large silver bowl filled with large chunks of ice, add the Jameson, Madeira, lemon juice, and water. Stir in the lemon peels and dust with freshly ground nutmeg. Serve in small cups.

Adapted from David Wondrich

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As we kick off the grilling season with Memorial Day this weekend, let’s talk burgers.

We already love local beef because it tastes better and supports the farm-to-table philosophy. And when we can’t buy local, we buy organic, to avoid added hormones and chemicals. (Pink slime, anyone? Blech.)

So why not take it up one step further? Grind your own beef. Think it’s hard? No way. If you can grate potatoes for latkes, you can grind beef for hamburgers.

My dad, who was the gourmand in our family long before being a gourmand was cool, had one of those clamp-on-the-table-and-crank-it grinders, which I inherited. And while that’s fun to use — and beats bicep curls at the gym — I prefer using the sausage-making attachment for the Kitchen Aid mixer

You can also grind meat with a food processor, pulsing quickly but sparingly until it’s chopped. Don’t whir. You’ll end up with paste. (See? Just like latkes!)

If you’re taking the time to grind your own beef, buy it from a reputable source. That might mean a local farm, farmers market, or even butcher or small grocery store. Ask where the beef comes from and whether it’s organic or grass-fed.

I recommend a combination of half chuck and half brisket, because good fat content will make the burgers juicy. A little bacon never hurts, either. (Sirloin works, too, but more expensive.)

To form patties, gather about 6 ounces of beef and loosely pat them together. So they don’t shrink when you grill them, use your thumb to make an indentation in the center.

Tips for grinding, after the jump.

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Today in the print version of Small Bites (I’m referring to the food section, haha!), I had a story asking where to get the best soft shell crabs.

Philip McGrath, the chef-owner of Iron Horse Grill in Pleasantville, says he has a customer who pesters him daily, asking when the soft shells are coming in, and begging him to call as soon as they do.

“People love the fact that there are these seasonal things,” McGrath says. “It’s a phenomenon.”

McGrath sautés his soft shells and serves them with ramps, golden cherry tomatoes, walnuts, basil and white wine with wild rice. The crabs should be crispy on the outside and succulent on the inside, he says.

So where are your favorites? How are they prepared? Tell me below!

For 12 weeks, we feature a wine, and include tasting notes and suggestions for pairings. At the end of the 12 weeks, we’ll review our Mixed Case, and recap the choices. Each mixed case will be chosen by a local wine shop owner, who will also become our wine expert-in-residence during his or her tenure. (So should we need recommendations for a holiday, for example. we’ll ask.) We’ll get a new expert for each case. Right now, we’re working on our Mixed Case from Aries Wine & Spirits in White Plains.

Domaine de Rimauresq Xavier Flouret Nationale 7 Rose 2010 is bottle 8 in our series. To see the rest, click here: Mixed Case on Small Bites.

Bonus online content

I have to edit it down to fit in the paper, but here is Aries owner Andrea Kish’s full description of the wine.

Name of Wine: Domaine de Rimauresq Xavier Flouret Nationale 7 Rose 2010

Region: Cotes de Provence, France; a 40 year old vineyard at the foot of the Maures mountains , 5hy3 Domaine is named for the river of the Maures which runs through it.

Tasting notes: a serious dry rose made from Grenache, Cinsault and Tibouren grapes; refined and subtle strawberry and peach fruit aromas, elegant texture, tart fruitiness and minerality in the palate and a refreshing finish

Goes with: grilled fish and other seafood dishes of the Mediterranean but has enough body to stand up to richer dishes such as foie gras and roast chicken

Why we chose it: dry rose is widely enjoyed throughout the Mediterranean when it is too hot for red; this wine reminds us of happy times in the south of France and St. Martin

Price: $19.99.

Julia Child once said, “It’s hard to imagine a civilization without onions.” I could not agree more. What is it about them? They add so much flavor to everything we eat – and we use them in so many different ways: raw, grilled, pickled and of course added to our mirepoix to flavor the base of many dishes. It’s a vegetable that dates back to the Bronze age. Egyptians buried it with their dead, Romans used it medicinally and the Europeans in the Middle Ages used them to barter. There are so many varieties with so many flavors.

Here is a little factoid about cutting an onion:  did you know that it releases a gas called  Propanethiol S-oxide? When mixed with certain enzymes in the onion, it creates a sulfur gas. These gases then get to your eyes and create a mild acid which irritates the eyes. So just about the only way to not cry is wear goggles.

Today I’m going to focus on the sweet variety. Within the sweets some  popular ones are: Walla Walla, from Washington and Maui, from Hawaii; but these pictured above are the famous Vidalia from Georgia. They are my favorite, possibly because they are the first sweet onions I ever tasted, and I love their flavor.

Their shape is unique, round and slightly flat and this year’s crop are just appearing in the market now. Here is an interesting tidbit about how they are grown: they are started in seed beds in September and then hand planted in November, just in time to harvest now. As with other onions you want to purchase this vegetable when its nice and firm, without soft spots or green sprouts. Nutritionally they are fat free, cholesterol free, sodium free and a good source of Vitamin C. I thought it would be fun to try to use them two different ways this week. This beautiful bunch was picked up at my local grocery store a few days ago. They are just gorgeous – small and golden.

Earlier that morning I had picked up a couple of soft shell crabs from Port Chester Seafood and I also had a few portobello mushrooms in the ‘fridge. Just to mix things up I decided to season everything with something other than a typical seafood crab spice. If you’ve never been to Penzey’s you’ve got to check it out. Locally you can find them in the Palisades Mall,  Norwalk, CT, and an outpost at the Grand Central Market.  You can find them on line too, but if you are close enough to a retail store you must make the trek. My friend Lynn introduced me to that mecca of spice several years ago and I’ve never looked back. In addition to having basic and exotic spices they make the most wonderful blended seasonings. I’ve frequently told participants in my cooking classes at Tarry Market that using blends can be one of the easiest ways to add a lot of flavor to your cooking without getting stressed about how many herbs and spices you are trying to add. For this simple sauté I used their Northwoods spice. Its a blend of several basic spices and includes chipotle. Herbacious with a kick!

I simply sliced the onions and seasoned them with olive oil and the Northwoods blend. I did the same for the mushrooms and crabs. In a grill pan on the stove top I cooked the onions and mushrooms together. Once they were done I tossed in the crab right into the same pan and finished them. A quick and tasty dinner in less than 30 minutes!

I had in my mind to do something that could be cooked down or pureed for my second recipe. Over the weekend we celebrated Elinor’s graduation in Vermont and I headed up the cooking for a big family dinner. Grilled chicken seemed to be the most logical choice for the BBQ, so I created a little marinade that worked out beautifully. (The recipe is below.)

After grilling the onions over charcoal I blended them with a few ingredients for a lovely marinade. This recipe makes a lot, so what I ended up doing was dividing it and using the other half for my guests to drizzle over their cooked chicken, as desired.

I hope you give these zippy sweet onions a try this weekend. You simply can’t go wrong, even if you just slice and grill them for your Memorial Day BBQ.

Buon Appetito!

Maria’s Vidalia Onion Marinade
Makes about 4 cups

3 medium Vidalia onions, sliced 1½ ” thick
1 sprig of fresh rosemary, leaves only
1-2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
½ cup balsamic vinegar
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
½ cup water, plus more if needed
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more
1 teaspoon coarse black pepper, plus more
Chicken of your choice, with skin if possible

Drizzle the onion slices with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill over hot charcoal until nicely charred. Cool slightly and place in a blender.

Add the rosemary, vinegar, oil, 1 tablespoon of sugar, water, salt and pepper. Puree until smooth. Taste for seasoning and add a little more sugar if desired and water if it’s too thick.

Divide in half and cover your chicken, marinating for a few hours before cooking. Set the other half of the marinade aside for serving.

Cook your chicken as desired, but do try to get the skin crisped!

Maria Reina is a personal chef, caterer and recreational cooking class teacher in Port Chester, NY. In her free time she loves hanging out at local Farmers Markets in Westchester County doing cooking demos with seasonal ingredients. In addition to her blog you can follow her  on Facebook and Twitter.

Antun’s of Westchester, the beloved catering hall and restaurant in Elmsford, will close its doors on May 31.

Parties that had been booked for the summer have already been notified, said Rich Stytzer. Stytzer’s father, Ron, took over the landmark restaurant 27 years ago.

The restaurant has been in existence since at least the 1930s, and perhaps before, and has seen many incarnations, incluiding as Bill Reiber’s, Reibers Razzberry, The Tale of the Fox and Antun’s Restaurant.

The Journal News is planning an appreciation of Antun’s, and we would like to hear from people who have fond memories of it. Please send your remembrances and photos of family celebrations and special occasions at Antun’s to reporter Dwight Worley, dworley@lohud.com, 914-694-3517.

You can also comment below.

I’ll update with more information as I get it.

Here is Antun’s web site: www.antunsofwestchester.com and its facebook page.

It might be surprising to find a seasoned, CIA trained chef at Mt. Kisco Seafood.  Yet, owner Joe Di Mauro’s customers know differently, and they rely on chef Jonathan Everin for freshly prepared, ready to go, meals for lunch or dinner and superb catering for all their parties.  Just a peek at the stocked refrigerated cases full of chowders, bisques, sauces and salads shows a small portion of Jon’s handiwork.  I had the unique pleasure of spending a day in his kitchen and experienced exactly how things work at Mt. Kisco Seafood.

Specialty store: Mt. Kisco Seafood in Mt. Kisco

Description:  Owner Joe Di Mauro and his staff are Westchester/Putnam’s local fishmongers, and they bring our area an extensive variety of the freshest seafood available.  But wait, there’s more … like produce from Cabbage Hill, specialty meats from D’Artagnan, cheeses from Rainbeau Ridge, or breads from Red Barn Bakery.  Mt. Kisco Seafood has a country market feel with all the bells and whistles of a one stop shopping gourmet market.  Of course, there’s always a delicious selection of prepared items straight from chef Jon Everin’s kitchen like White Clam Sauce, Crab Cakes or Lobster Bisque.  So, whether you need to pick up dinner on the way home or organize a clam bake party, Mt. Kisco Seafood is always happy to help.

Owner:  It’s no wonder that owner Joe Di Mauro is an expert on all things fishy since he’s been doing this for over 30 years and obviously loves every fin, gill and shell of it.

Photo courtesy of Margaret Rizzuto Photography

Executive chef:  When executive chef Jonathan Everin is not in Mt. Kisco Seafood’s kitchen making appetizing lunches and dinners for customers, he’s stirring up chili for national competitions.   He recently won the Hudson Valley Regional chili cookoff, coming in first place, and also placed second in the New York City competition in the salsa category.

Chef Jon Everin

In his free time, Jon caters events like teacher appreciation day at Horace Greeley High School or cooks kosher meals every Friday for the conservative temple’s Saturday Sabbath.  Jon started out studying engineering, but midway through he decided to follow his passion and enrolled in the Culinary Institute of America.  One of his first positions was working at Howard Johnson’s in the Cross County Shopping Center in Yonkers.

Read more Behind the Kitchen Door

The Captain’s Log

Whiling away a summer day with a Captain’s Reserve Imperial IPA in one hand, and a bocce ball in the other, poised to give it (the ball, not the beer) a hearty toss down the lane…

Not a bad way to spend an afternoon, huh?

The bocce court has been constructed on the lawn outside, and Captain Lawrence Brewing is just awaiting final approval from the Town of Greenburgh to pull the wraps off it and play ball. Owner Scott Vaccaro says it won’t be long now.

“We’re optimistic that by the first Saturday in June, you’ll be able to play bocce and drink beer on the patio,” he says.

Summer is shaping up to be a hot one at the brewery. After months of contemplation, Scott has picked the first beers for the new experimental brewhouse. There are two: what he calls a “hoppy wheat-based pale ale, dry hopped with Palisade,” that’s been dubbed “Batch 1”; and the brewery’s first employee brew, from Captain Lawrence vet Scott Tobin. His “Batch 2” is a toasted coriander wit beer (the Belgian white beer style) fermented with German Kolsch yeast.

Those are expected to be ready for public consumption in the next couple weeks.

“We’ve christened it!” Scott says of the pilot system.

Brewing in the new brewhouse, he says, was similar to cooking in a new kitchen—there was a bit of a learning curve as he and the gear got a feel for each other, which in Batch 1’s case, knocked what was initially to be an Imperial IPA down to the pale ale range.

There will be 10-15 kegs of each available to taste. They’ll go fast, but Scott says there will be a steady lineup of new creations coming out of the pilot system.

With Father’s Day less than a month away, the annual St. Vincent’s Dubbel, a Belgian-style Abbey ale released each year for Day of the Dad, will be available in 750 ml bottles (five out of five dads preferred the St. Vincent’s to a necktie or aftershave). Meanwhile, Hops & Roses—a nod to Axl, Slash and the G&R boys in the form of a golden ale flavored with hibiscus, rose hips and elder flowers, and stored in oak barrels—will be bottled in the next few weeks. Smart money says that brew’s reviews will be better than those for “Chinese Democracy.”

And as anyone who’s been in the tasting room the past few weeks can attest, the spring favorite Golden Delicious, aged in apple brandy barrels, is currently available in samples and bottles. That flavor-rich trippel ale packs a serious punch.

So does the Captain’s Reserve Imperial IPA, which has been hauling home hardware at a Michael Phelps-ian pace. The Reserve snagged silver medals at the Tap New York Craft Beer Festival last month, including one for Best Craft Beer, NY State, then made Time Magazine’s elite “Nine Beers You’re Drinking This Summer” list. (Alas, not the issue with the nursing toddler on the cover.) “An extra hoppy India Pale Ale at a whopping 9% ABV,” said Time.

Speaking of time, Scott says he hasn’t had enough of it recently to hang out in the tasting room on weekends, thanks in large part to his baby boy. The bocce court, however, may change that. “Once that’s ready,” he says, “I’ll have to teach Drew how to play.”

—Michael Malone (malone5a@yahoo.com)

Captain Lawrence Brewing, at 444 Saw Mill River Road in Elmsford, is open Tuesday through Friday (retail 2-7 p.m., samples 4-7 p.m.); and Saturday, with retail and samples 12-6 p.m., and brewery tours at 1, 2 and 3 p.m. The author is paid by Captain Lawrence, partially in beer, for “Notes From the Tasting Room.”

You know those games where people ask you, what would be the one thing you would take outside with you in case of a fire, and you wonder what the right answer might be. I, kind of have the same dilema when I am asked to pick my favorite spice. To me, it is almost like being asked if I have a favorite child.

Well, I may not be able to settle on the one special spice, I can tell you that cumin is certainly one of the essentials in my kitchen. Smoky, potent and strong, this tiny seed is an essential for cooking Indian, Mexican and Middle-Eastern cuisines.

Cumin is a native to middle-eastern and Mediterranean regions. It was grown in ancient Egypt where the seeds were used in rituals and for food. There is mention of this spice in the old and new Testaments where it is spelled as, “cummin”. It has been excavated at a site call Tell ed Der in Syria, this site has been dated to the 2nd millennium BC, so this spice is at least 4, 000 years old.
Cumin belongs to the parsley family and is the seed of a flowering plant. It comes in varieties of white, brown and black. There are differences in taste depending on the color and type of cumin used.

In my kitchen, the variety of cumin most frequently used is the brown variety. There are variations to how I use it. I used the whole seeds for tempering or lightly toasted in oil in the recipe I shall share with you. Cumin powder also shown here is used for dishes in combination with other spices.

Well, there are rules to every game. One of my spice rules are to powder spices in small quantities and use as needed. Try to avoid buying pre-ground spices. Once you get hooked to the smell and freshness of home ground spices, there will be no turning back. A small variation to the ground cumin, is to toast the cumin for a minute till the cumin is fragrant and darkens slightly and then grinding it. This minute of process makes a big different, the taste is much strong, deeper and bolder.

I buy my cumin in fairly large quantities and store the whole cumin in airtight containers in a cool and dry space and use it within a year of purchase.

I shall share a simple recipe for cauliflower, which is seasoned with whole cumin seeds, ginger, turmeric, lime and cilantro.

Cumin and Lime Cauliflower

I tend to use olive oil for my recipes, mostly because I feel it is a good compromise between health and taste. It you want you can add a tablespoon of butter to the cauliflower with the oil.

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 20 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients

3 tablespoons oil (I use EVOO)

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger

1 head of cauliflower (about 2 cups), chopped

1/2 teaspoon turmeric

Salt to taste

1 lime or lemon

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro or mint

Method of Preparation

1. Heat the oil on medium heat for about a minute.

2. Add in the cumin seeds and cook for about 30 seconds until the seeds sizzle and darken slightly.

3. Add in the ginger and saute lightly for about 30 seconds.

4. Add in the cauliflower and cook on medium heat, stirring frequently, for about 5 minutes, until the cauliflower softens and turns dark golden in spots.

5. Add in the turmeric and the salt and mix well.

6. Lower the hear and cover and cook for 7-8 minutes.

7. Remove the cover, the cauliflower should be fairly soft at this point.

8. Cut the lime and squeeze in the juice and garnish with cilantro and enjoy immediately.

I shall be featuring red chilies or cayenne next, I would love to hear how you use this potent spice and also see your recipes using red chilies. Please share as comment to my facebook page or on small bites.

Rinku Bhattacharya, is a daytime financial professional, who spends the rest of her time immersed in food. Rinku is the author of the blog, Cooking in Westchester, where she shares her life experiences, and original recipes that combine Indian spices with produce from her backyard and local farmers markets. Rinku is blessed with a gardener husband, who always surprises her with a prolific and fresh supply of produce to keep her creative instincts flowing. Rinku has been teaching recreational cooking classes for the past six years, and has found her classes a great way to learn and connect.

Her cookbook the Bengali Five Spice Chronicles, is scheduled to be published in November 2012. Rinku can be found on facebook, twitter and pinterest.

Here’s a look at the photos from today’s Grand Tasting at Westchester Magazine’s Wine & Food Weekend.

Sunday’s Grand Tasting at the Ritz Carlton.

Did you attend? What were your favorite wines? Foods? Let me know below!

 

David Wondrich, the mixology sage, leads a Saturday seminar behind the bar at 42.

A dash of absinthe can perk up your Manhattan and a bit of grated nutmeg can add a welcome subtlety to a traditional punch.

So said David Wondrich, the Esquire columnist and mixology sage who hosted a Saturday seminar at Westchester Magazine’s Wine and Food Festival. With commanding views of the Lower Hudson Valley as a backdrop, Wondrich used the bar at 42 as his pulpit, preaching cocktail history and offering tips of bartending trade to an eager audience of 40.

I’m Ed Forbes, the digital editor at The Journal News and LoHud.com, and I was among the acolytes Wondrich took on a journey that began aboard British ships in the early 1600s and ended in today’s cocktail renaissance, Wondrich used four cocktails to outline the history and evolution of modern spirits.

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Were you at the grand tasting Saturday Westchester Magazine’s Wine & Food Weekend?

Maybe we snapped your photo!

Take a look at our photo gallery here: Saturday photos from Westchester Magazine’s Wine & Food Weekend

Westchester Magazine has just released tickets for the previously sold out Saturday Grand Tasting for its Wine & Food Weekend at the Ritz-Carlton this weekend. Click here to get ‘em while they’re still available. westchestermagazine.com/wineweekend.

Meanwhile, I hear the Burgers & Beer Bash (also sold out!) was a smashing success last night, with 1,200 people attmding. I’m waiting to get some photos, but after the jump, I have the menu of burgers from the 22 participating restaurants. I’ll update as soon as I get photos!

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Jonathan Pratt and Craig Purdy, owners of Peter Pratt’s Inn in Yorktown Heights and Umami Cafe and MexToGo in Croton-on-Hudson, will open a French Bistro with a Moroccan flair in the former Bella Paula location at 120 Grand Street in Croton-on-Hudson this summer. They hope to be open by July.

Pratt says the menu will be classic French bistro — steak frites and frisee aux lardons and the like — with Moroccan dishes, too, such as tagines, carrot salads and mint tea. France and Morocco have had political ties since the 8th century.

The restaurant will have 50 to 60 seats inside, and 20 seats on a patio. It will look more like Paris than Marrakech, thought Pratt wasn’t sure whether they’d have a zinc bar. Bella Paula used to be split in two; one side a pizzeria, the other a restaurant. Pratt and Purdy are converting the pizzeria to a bar, which will also have seating. The working name, which may change, is Brasserie Grand.

I don’t think that the avocado was, for me, a love-at-first-bite kind of thing, but wow, times have changed. These days I find it hard hard to resist the nutty flavor of avocado flesh; it can be eaten with just a squirt of lime and a sprinkle of salt, used as a topping for soups and salads, or used as a backdrop in different guacamoles and salsas.

This interpretation of guacamole—with a bit of spark and smoke from chipotles, sweet from the grapes, and crunch from the nuts—is a crowd pleaser, and perfect as a kick-off treat for your spring or summertime barbecues. For a larger crowd, this recipe is super simple to multiply. (By the way, to make chipotle purée, you can buy a can of chipotles en adobo in any Latin market—or section of a market—and purée them in a blender. This will keep for up to 6 weeks, or beyond, in the fridge—and adds a nice smoky flavor to sauces—and even mayonnaise.)

Serve this guacamole with a bowl of your favorite tortilla chips, and ice-cold beer or fruit-filled sangría.

The recipe, after the jump.

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I have always considered Whole Foods a go-to place for plant-based groceries: nut and plant milks, tofu, tempeh, seitan, soy yogurt, and coconut ice cream, to name just a few.  I did not know until recently, however, that the last Thursday of every month is “Vegan Thursday.”

Irene Devore, Culinary Demonstration Specialist at Whole Foods Market, White Plains, serves up vegan treats from 12:00 – 2:00 p.m.  by the coffee bar.  Trained at the New York Restaurant School, Devore selects a vegan cookbook each month and demonstrates several recipes. Participants receive a copy of the recipe and, most importantly, samples of the finished product.

I observed that two types of Whole Foods customers experienced the event.  The first group were those who came to the store specifically for the vegan demonstration (I was a part of that group). This group stands at the station while Chef Devore talks us through each recipe, answers questions and, of course, gives us food.  The other group of customers are the curious shoppers.  There is an inviting sign over the demonstration kiosk

that entices customers to stop for a sample and to hear about the recipe. On this particular Thursday there were far more of the latter.  Dan Burnstein, pictured above, in town on business from Tulsa, was simply in the store to pick up supplies for his stay in White Plains.  (He is a vegan and we vegans know to find a Whole Foods when traveling out out town.)  He was delighted to see the Vegan Thursday sign and sample a sweet treat.

For the April “Vegan Thursday” Devore selected the classic plant-based cookbook How It All Vegan and she served up three terrific recipes:  Vegan Spanakopita, Lemon Kale SooFoo Salad, and Vegan Black Bean Brownies.

The secret to the Kale Salad was the vegan “feta” (made with herbed tofu) and SooFoo, a blend of brown rice, grains and lentils. Both the herbed tofu and SooFoo are available in the store, naturally.

“Vegan Thursday” is just one of many in-store events planned by Culinary Demonstration Specialist Irene Devore.  Be sure to check out the store calendar for future tastings and demonstrations. The next “Vegan Thursday” is May 26, 12:00 – 2:00 p.m., Whole Foods Market, White Plains, 110 Bloomingdale Road  White Plains, NY 10605.

I Eat Plants columnist JL Fields blogs about her transition to a vegan diet and lifestyle at JL goes Vegan: Food & Fitness with a Side of Kale. Her original recipes have been featured on Foodbuzz, BlogHer and Meatless Monday. She is the editor of the community blog Stop Chasing Skinny: Find Happiness Beyond the Scale.   JL is the founder and lead consultant for JL Fields Consulting.  She serves on the board of directors of the Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary and the advisory board of Our Hen House.  Follow JL on Twitter and Facebook.