ZzeST in Suffern

7

2007-0303zzest-04.jpg

This clay and brick oven was imported from Italy. It landed at a new restaurant in Suffern: <a href=”http://www.zzestny.com/” target=”_blank”> ZzeST. </a> (People. Please. Stop with the music on Web sites. If I want to hear music, I’ll go to iTunes or turn on the Peak. Sheesh. You can’t even turn that off!) I dined there with my folks the other day. The food was pretty good, and everyone is thrilled to see a new place in town.

We got a little lost on the way because we thought it was in downtown Suffern. It’s actually at the light just after the big strip mall if you’re coming from the Airmont Road exit off the Thruway. Take a left onto Campbell. (The road is called Hemion if you turn right.)

Our greeting at the door was confusing. We checked in and the host just said: “OK.” We didn’t know if that meant we were going to our table? Was he going to take our coats? Should we get a drink at the (very loud and crowded) bar? After milling about a minute or two, we decided to take the third option.

The glasses of wine come with little carafes, which is nice.

2007-0303zzest-17.jpg

Now, into the dining room:

2007-0303zzest-01.jpg
Once we were settled, it took us a while to decide what we wanted. There are TONS of choices.

I adored the oysters.

2007-0303zzest-06.jpg

Some of you may remember Gregg Schwack from Pastels, which was in Orangeburg. He had a nice raw bar selection there, too, and has brought that to ZzeST (Why the double letters? Why the capitals at the end?)

We also quite liked the Belgian-Style Mussels with shallots, cream, chimay beer, crispy potatoes and rouille. (What a mouthful!)

2007-0303zzest-07.jpg

And this was one of the best dishes of the night, a special soup, English Pea with Proscuitto:

2007-0303zzest-08.jpg

(Forgive the horrible photos. The restaurant was dim and I won’t use a flash.)

Entrees come with salads:

2007-0303zzest-09.jpg

I ate some, but wanted to save room for my Kobe beef:

2007-0303zzest-11.jpg

It came with pearl onions, mushrooms and a truffle glaze. I couldn’t much taste the truffle. The beef was cooked perfectly.

2007-0303zzest-14.jpg

We also had the Dines Farm Organic New York Strip Steak with melted leeks, haricot verts, glazed baby carrots, balsamic-infused shallots, bacon, spinach and truffle risotto cakes and cabernet wine sauce:

2007-0303zzest-12.jpg

I think you can tell from the menu description that that dish could use an edit. (Everyone needs an editor.) It tasted good, but there’s so much going on it’s hard to know what to focus on.

The focusing part was true for most of Zzest. We also tried the poached cod, too, and a tilapia. But the menu is so big, we didn’t know whether to choose pizza, that fancy Kobe beef dish, oysters or old-school Italian like veal, shrimp or chicken, which can be prepared any of five ways: picatta, marsala, parmigana, francaise, or grilled.

Take this dish, for example:

2007-0303zzest-05.jpg

Wood-oven roasted sausage with chick pea puree and broccoli rabe puree. I ordered it because I’d had another rendition recently at <a href=”http://www.gustonyc.com/” target=”_blank”> Gusto </a> in Manhattan. Here’s a photo of the Gusto version:
gusto.jpg

Gusto’s, which was made with white beans and without tomatoes, was deeply satisfying. ZzeSTs, while good, was just lacking a little oomph. Like the flavors just weren’t quite coming together — probably because there were too many of them. You can tell from the photo that ZzeST’s has a lot more going on the plate. (Just like it does on its fancy Web site and its crazy-long menu and the emphasis on the letters in its name.) Gusto’s is just perfectly simple and delicious.

I’m giving the restaurant the benefit of being a newbie, though. It just opened in January, so they’ve still got sea legs. I’d like to see them stand up straight and take a stand for what they’re focusing on. They’re really on to something with a brick oven and a raw bar in a casual but cool setting. I, for one, am going back for pizza and pasta. I hope I get another carafe for my wine.

2007-0303zzest-19.jpg

Share.

About Author

Liz Johnson is content strategist for The Journal News and lohud.com, and the founding editor of lohudfood, formerly know as Small Bites. As food editor, she won awards from the New York News Publishers Association, the Association of Food Journalists and the Associated Press. She lives in Nyack with her husband and daughter on a tiny suburban lot they call their farm — with fruit trees, an herb garden, and a yardful of lettuce, tomatoes, onions, shallots, cucumbers, zucchini, radishes, cabbage, peppers, Brussels sprouts and carrots and four big blueberry bushes.

7 Comments

  1. elizabeth sadoyan on

    i dined at zzest as well. i think it has tremendous potential considering rockland county is just so boring food wise. zzest really brings uummpphh to the town and is an exciting local place with good food, drink, and alot of electricity. you can make it both ways; a night out with the kids for their $7 kids menu and delicious pizza or a night out with friends for a steak and lots of drinks. i like a place that has both options and does not limit itself. anyway, great article.

  2. elizabeth sadoyan on

    as a matter of fact, funny you should mention, but i actually had a kobe burger there one night as a special they offered. let me tell you, it had to be the best burger i think i have ever had. it was just out of this world!!! anyway, i went AGAIN to zzest tonight to a fabulous fundraiser for breast cancer. it was really so nice to be a part of this special event. again, fabulous food and tons of electricity. they were wonderful hosts. i give them alot of credit because lets face it, its hard to keep 200 women all happy at the same time. GREAT JOB!!!! can’t wait to go back for some more great food!!!

  3. The Bartender is AMAZING which complimented the restaurant’s image, as well as the whole dining experience!!! The electricity in the air was as vibrant as being in Yankee Stadium for a game 7!! All kidding aside, the place has a lot of potential and for a “newbie” they will persevere and hopefully succeed! This is the HOTTEST place since restaurant “X” opened 12 years ago!!!!

  4. Liz, did this place bite the dust already? Phone # is disconnected. Website is up and running, and has a new listing on Zagat. Got any scoop?

  5. FYI-Zzest changed its name to Tuscany Italian Restaurant – same owners; new phone is 845-357-1818.

  6. There’s something peculiar about this being just a simple name change, Rich. I think there’s more to this than you say.

    Firstly, if it is the same owners, why change the phone #? And if you do, why is there no new information when you call the old #?
    Secondly, why is the Zzest website up and running as if the place is going strong?
    Thirdly, what sounded good about Zzest is that it was very UNItalian. Who the H___ needs ANOTHER ITALIAN RESTAURANT?????

Leave A Reply