Per Se, Le Bernardin and … Mount Kisco Seafood?
Thatâ€™s right. When it comes to some of the most exclusive tuna on the planet, Mount Kisco Seafood owner Joe DiMauro is keeping company with Per Seâ€™s Thomas Keller and Le Bernardinâ€™s Eric Ripert, two of the countryâ€™s most highly regarded chefs.
The bluefin tuna is called kindai, and itâ€™s farmed sustainably in the waters off Osaka, Japan.
Only 5 fish per week are shipped to the U.S. and the loin of one of them arrives at Mount Kisco Seafood on Thursdays. By Sunday, itâ€™s all sold out â€” even at $68 per pound.
Yes, $68. This is like the kobe of the tuna world.
â€œTheyâ€™re better taken care of than you and me,â€ says DiMauro.
The fish are raised by Japanâ€™s Kinki University, and come from a sustainability effort started in 1948 as an experiment in growing fish after natural sources were overfished.
It turns out, because the kindai are fed anchovies, eels and mackerel by hand by the students, the tuna are almost mercury-free.
DiMauro gets 8 to 12 pounds of kindai per week. It comes via Litchfield Farms Organic & Natural, a natural-minded distributor in Connecticut. According to New York magazine, the fish even come with provenance, “documenting place of incubation, date of transfer from hatchery to open-water pen, water densityâ€”even its specific diet.”
â€œTheyâ€™re farm-raised in the purest sense of pure,â€ says DiMauro.
And apparently, the fish is absolutely to-die-for.
â€œIf you cook it â€” itâ€™s a sin,â€ says DiMauro.
Even if you just sear it quickly?
â€œOK, if you just introduce it to the flame, but thatâ€™s it,â€ he says. â€œFifteen to 20 seconds a side.â€
Mount Kisco Seafood, 477 Lexington Ave., Mount Kisco. 914-241-3113.