Next Week’s Restaurant Review: The Cabin in Greenburgh

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I know we did a Westchester restaurant last week, but I’ve got something pretty exciting coming up in Rockland next week, so I thought we’d do a two-fer in Westchester. So this week, Judith Hausman visits The Cabin, an old favorite with a new look in Greenburgh.

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(Tania Savayan/TJN) 

Tell me what you think of The Cabin? I’ll choose a few comments to print alongside the review in the paper on Wednesday.

The review, after the jump.

Judith Hausman
For The Journal News
If you’ve been around Westchester anytime in the last 60 years, you likely know about The Cabin: that old-fashioned, family-run restaurant at the corner of Routes 100, 100A and 100C in Greenburgh, with wood paneling and a menu that covered everything from burgers to eggplant Parmesan to Cajun catfish.

When it closed in 2006, it was to the cries of regulars who had been dining there for decades. Literally. Former owner Jody Bassett — who was hired as a waitress at age 19 and married the son of the boss — wiped a tear from her eye when remembering some of the old times. “That’s a tearjerker,” she told The Journal News when the restaurant closed.

So you can imagine the pressure Steve Cross is under. He’s only the second owner since 1937, and because he’s completely restored the restaurant, from the log walls to the stonework, he’s got quite a number of people’s expectations and memories to contend with.

“Everyone has a recollection of a cabin somewhere,” he says.
It’s fun to compare his work to the photograph of the original Cabin on the entrance wall.

“We want Cabin to be comfortable and affordable, a little bit of an experience,” says Cross, who is also the owner of Striped Bass in Tarrytown and of Greenwich Lobster House in Greenwich, Conn. “And nothing on the menu will ever be over $20.”

His concern with price point and flexibility in today’s economic atmosphere is evident on the menu. A meal can be as homey as the best-seller Black Angus meatloaf or sliced grilled steak with garlic mashed potatoes at the bar or as elaborate as a catered business function in the banquet room. At lunchtime, the Cabin serves construction crews, business lunchers and seniors; at dinner the crowd segues into families; late at night there are barflies and couples out on the town. There are TVs mounted everywhere and food is served until 12:30 in the morning.

A stone-faced hearth pizza oven dominates the center of the dining room, which is decorated with birch logs and oak chairs and tables. Our welcoming and knowledgeable waitress raved about the garlicky fresh clam pizza, but to us it was (over) perfuming the entire restaurant.

We chose the pizza special instead, a sparer combination of thin, chewy prosciutto and crunchy baby arugula, just sprinkled with grated asiago. We liked it so much we used the crunchy hand-stretched crust to scoop up the spicy marechiara sauce in our other entrée: a fish special with clams, mussels and tilapia filet. Planked salmon or scallops are other seafood options and casual sandwiches and fries, such as the half-pound Angus sirloin burger and crab-cake BLT, are winners, too.

You could begin a meal at the bar with mini crab cakes, baked stuffed clams (“that made Striped Bass famous”), chicken quesadilla or vegetable samosas. Or you could dig into an almond-crusted goat cheese salad, as we did. The raspberry vinaigrette was overly sweet and didn’t taste homemade, but the fresh raspberries and pecan garnishes were nice touches.

Cross has wisely redesigned Cabin and expanded the “hangout” possibilities of a Westchester landmark. I was pleased and I think the old regulars will be, too.

The Cabin Restaurant
1172 Knollwood Road
Greenburgh
914-592-6682
cabinrestaurantny.com

Cuisine
American

Price
Entrées $10 to $20

Hours
Lunch and dinner daily. Food until 12:30 a.m.

In brief
Step back in time in this restored roadhouse. The bar is friendly and the cuisine is reasonable and satisfying. There’s something for everyone, from comfort food to modern salads to gourmet pizzas in between.

What we liked
Tilapia marechiara, arugula and prosciutto pizza, crab-cake BLT

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About Author

Liz Johnson is content strategist for The Journal News and lohud.com, and the founding editor of lohudfood, formerly know as Small Bites. As food editor, she won awards from the New York News Publishers Association, the Association of Food Journalists and the Associated Press. She lives in Nyack with her husband and daughter on a tiny suburban lot they call their farm — with fruit trees, an herb garden, and a yardful of lettuce, tomatoes, onions, shallots, cucumbers, zucchini, radishes, cabbage, peppers, Brussels sprouts and carrots and four big blueberry bushes.

5 Comments

  1. Wonderful memories of The Cabin from my days as a nursing student @ Westchester County Medical Center..Grasslands @ that time.! Happy to hear you are back! Best wishes. I’ll stop in to see the new you.

  2. As one of the old regulars I did revisit the Cabin reincarnation. The makeover is indeed tremendous but it was never as much the surroundings as it was the staff and clientele that made the Cabin what it was. The original CHEERS where everyone did indeed know your name. That sadly will probably never be duplicated.

    Through my 35 years as a loyal customer I was part of and watched many alliances forged between tradesman and executive. Between college student and cop, younger generation and older generation. Blue collar and white collar came together as merely Cabin Yankee fans.

    I wish the new management well and hope they to can establish themselves as more than just another restaurant.

    To myself and many like me, the Cabin was far more that a place to eat and drink. It was a place to meet friends, watch them grow families and careers. To mourn those that departed this world too early by raising a glass in rememberance from time to time.

    To Mike, Jody and all the wonderfull staff and gold card customers I miss it!

    George – just to the left of Mangone’s stool 😉

  3. The Cabin is a friendly place that serves well prepared basic food on a consistent basis. I have never had a bad meal there and am always served with a smile. The baked clams are especially good.

  4. We have been to The cabin on numerous occassions since it reopened. My company had 10 people for my birthday in which they put us all upfront for comfort and convenience. The food the staff and the atmosphere is incredible. Good job to Steve Cross, keep up the great work.

  5. Have not yet been to the “Cabin”, but if you want an incredible evening then go to “Striped Bass” and ask for Amanda to serve you.

    When we went there, not only was the food fantastic, but the waitress did an incredible job. While I consider the food a huge part of the puzzle, the attention we get in a place that is as busy as “Striped Bass” is almost as important. Amanda was polite, and extremely professional. She was very informative and never once did we have to look for her in order to order something additional to our table.

    As for the food…we never had any problems. Food was hot and delicious. Our wait time from ordering the food to when it was served was a little long, but that was due to the traffic in the “Bass” and I am sure if there was a lesser crowd, the food would have been there sooner.

    All in all, we have no problems going back there, and we do. Each time we do go back we ask for Amanda to be our waitress and we are guaranteed a fantastic dining experience of not only food, but attention.

    Well done “Striped Bass”!!!

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