On Alan’s GQ blog — among numerous and very annoying popup ads — he chronicles his visit to Tarry Lodge.
Here are a few highlights:
It has just enough comfort and entirely enough class to make it one of the most satisfying dining options in Westchester County. A second surprise: reasonable prices.
Tarry Lodge is one of the most interesting pizzerias in New York. The crusts are thin, charred, toothsome, and just a bit too chewy—you’re unlikely to finish off every bit of your puffy outer ring. The toppings—I tried four—are creative and triumphant. Not one dud. They include spicy salami and porcini; truffles, pig cheek, and egg; meatballs and jalapeño peppers; and a clam pie that is unlike any other clam pizza I’ve tried, which means the clams aren’t overcooked so horrendously they taste like rubber-bands-of-the-sea.
I’m not certain why Tarry Lodge has turned out to be such a success, although I’m inclined to credit the presence of (chef-owner Andy )Nusser. I’m not the first person to espouse an unassailable theory, invariably ignored by chains, that everything good happens in a restaurant because a talented chef works there.
Coming soon: A guest blog on Tarry Lodge.