Alan Richman Says Tarry Lodge’s Clam Pie Is Among the Best in the U.S.
In the latest issues of GQ magazine, Alan Richman, who lives in Mamaroneck, writes about the top 25 pizzas in the U.S. Pizzeria Bianco is in there, naturallly, and so is Totonno’s. Coming in at number 11, though, is the Tarry Lodge in Port Chester.
Alan says:
(PORT CHESTER, NY)
11. Tarry Lodge
Clam pieThe clam pie, legendary in New Haven, is an oddity that seldom succeeds, since clams taken out of their shells and cooked atop a pizza invariably turn into rubbery bits. At Tarry Lodge, an Italian restaurant run by Mario Batali, something profoundly simple and fundamentally correct is done: The clams remain in their shells. On my visit they were Manila clams, delicate and sweet, briny and fresh, tiny beauties accented by the garlic, oregano, red pepper, and Parmigiano-Reggiano atop a thin, nicely charred crust. You have to work to remove the clams from their shells, but compared with everything else required to access great pizza these days, that isn’t much effort.
Other pizzas in the region he recommends?
Sally’s Apizza in New Haven: White pie with potato
Co. in Manhattan: Margherita
Frank Pepe in New Haven: The Original Tomato Pie
Famous Joe’s in Manhattan: A slice
Una Pizza Napoletana in Manhattan: Margherita
