HVRW: Todd Matthews on Mauro’s Restaurant in Ossining
On Main Street in Ossining stands Mauro’s Restaurant. When we stepped inside, it appeared “fancy”, yet the staff spoke to us in a casual and friendly way as if to say, “Welcome home.”
The decor is warm, with tables for two and four, which they quickly and inconspicuously reconfigured for larger parties. In addition, there is a wall of nicely appointed, and quite comfy banquettes. The color scheme is soft yellows mixed with burgundies. The low playing music was a surprise as it is quite chill – – think W hotels.
Mauro’s offerings for Hudson Valley Restaurant Week have something for everyone.
Of the three antipasti choices, beyond salad, two stood out as something different. First came the Creamy Polenta in a warmed bowl. The polenta was light, fluffy, and warming. Just ever-so-placed into the dish are shrimp that have just the right kick with slight evidence of crushed red pepper. There were small clams which provided a light briny bite. Then there was the sprinkling across the top of crispy speck. If you don’t know speck, you should. It is a juniper infused ham from northern Italy – – a real treat. The flavor combo was great.
The soup offering was quite interesting. It resembled the texture of split pea. It is called, “Mom’s Healthful Roasted Garlic and Spinach Soup.” Light, yet evident, is the essence of roasted garlic. The bright green color is derived from fresh spinach, and there are thin threads of extra virgin olive oil present. The only thing I craved here was a light grating of Parmigiano Reggiano, or even a Grana Padano. I was told that the chef’s family hails from Sicily. Chef Giuseppe Bologna clearly brings the wonderful experiences of growing up in a food-filled Italian home, to Mauro’s. It doesn’t hurt that Chef is also a C.I.A. grad.
Secondi courses held five promising selections. Again, something for everyone whether you are looking for carne, pesce, or want to stay on the veggie front.
The first dish was Filet Mignon. I ordered it medium-rare and it was delivered just as requested. The outside of this delicious cut had a well-balanced, seasoned crust which delivered a nice little smoky zing once it hit your mouth. A barolo reduction sauce accompanied and was perfect. The steak was positioned atop a crisp wedge of polenta cake. The polenta had a beautiful golden, yet caramelized color, and had light crunch with an awareness of olive oil. Well, if that wasn’t enough, those two components sat on a lovely bed of sautéed broccoli rabe. The rabe itself could have been a little more seasoned, but was nicely tender with no evidence of bitter notes.
Next, we moved on to the Pan Seared Baby Lamb Chops. I have to say, these were about the best lamb chops I’ve ever had. The lamb is American raised, which I liked. Touch-of-smoke flavor, yet not overwhelming. The presentation was completed with the addition of slightly spicy, cauliflower florets. I am not one to typically enjoy cauliflower as not many do it justice. I really enjoyed these. Another “wow” on the plate was the olive oil infused crushed potatoes. The texture was creamy, yet with a slight resistance as you bite into the little pieces of softly cooked potato. It was also crushed with fresh green herbs. A real hit at the table.
Finally it was time for dessert. The Sinful Molten Chocolate Cake which was accompanied by a vanilla gelato was well received. The cake was warm and almost “lava like” in the interior. The gelato was okay, and I am still pondering what other flavor might have rounded it out better for me.
The star dessert, however, was the Zabaglione Bread Pudding. It is even hard to describe. The sauce was flavorful yet delicate and yet garnered many “Mmmmmms….” at the table.
Mauro’s provided a really great experience. The environment, service, pricing, and of course the food, made this a memorable evening. In fact, so much so, that it becomes one of those places that are top-of-mind.
