Small Bites

Guest blogger Don McNicol here, reviewing Morgans Fish House in Rye for Hudson Valley Restaurant week.

I suppose the first and most striking piece of information about tonight’s dinner is that Morgans is about to undergo a significant overhaul in the very near future. Having taken over the space formerly occupied by the upscale but ultimately unsuccessful RK’s on Elm Street in Rye back in 2007, and having drawn enthusiastic crowds from near and far for its sparking seafood ever since, Morgans will, according to our very much “in the know” waiter, close its doors on Easter Sunday for several weeks of “down to the studs” renovations.

Reopening in a more “industrial” but somehow “warmer” and less formal reincarnation, the restaurant will feature some new influences in the kitchen that will liven up and re-invigorate the already flavorful and dependable fare that has kept people coming back for more ever since the place opened. The staff is reportedly very excited about the changes coming, even if it means switching to white sneakers from “good old restaurant shoes.” We will certainly look forward to the reopening with rapt anticipation.

[Edit from Liz: Thanks for the news, Don! Great reporting!]

Tonight we were seated in the back room of the restaurant, a lovely space with a touch more formality (and quiet) than the boisterous front. Service was prompt, courteous (humorous even!) and enthusiastic. Drinks, water and bread were replenished swiftly and non-intrusively, yet the pace of the meal was relaxed and unrushed. The restaurant (as it exists now) is a pleasant, bustling and modern space whose energy is augmented by the busy open kitchen placed smack in the middle of the action.

[Another edit from Liz. Above is the open kitchen, in a JN photo by Rory Glaeseman]

The wine list at Morgan’s is first rate, with a generous and interesting international selection of sauvingnon blancs, chardonnays, cabernets, pinot noirs and other varietals for all budgets. I opted for the Chalone sauvignon blanc, which served a s a perfect foil for all of our fish based courses.

Now to the food. For the record, my dining companions and I stuck pretty much to the Restaurant Week menu with one noteworthy addition.

There is a scene from the movie “Julie and Julia” where Julia Child first gets a taste of Parisian Sole Meuniere, the silky, buttery and sensual experience of which she must immediately share with her husband by feeding him a bite. All he can do upon tasting the fish, in the marvelous wordless communication between lovers who know each other beyond words, is to hug her and mutter, “I know, I know.”

Well, the Sole Francese at Morgan’s on this night may not quite have lived up to that understated gush of food lust, but it was close.

Closer still was the New England Seafood Chowder, whose rich, dense, briny flavor was thickened and leavened perfectly with sweet cream (never cornstarch!) and a generous gobbet of perfectly cooked salmon filet floating in the bottom. Really wonderful stuff.

Also memorable was the Mustard and Sesame Salmon roll, four pieces of delectable salmon wrapped in crunchy, sesame encrusted rolls accompanied by an avocado puree laced with wasabi. A third appetizer of crisp iceberg lettuce topped with bacon, tomato, onion and blue cheese dressing also proved a tasty starter.

We opted for an additional shared appetizer of Buffalo Rock Shrimp with Maytag Blue Cheese sauce and were rewarded with tender, spicy and crispy crustaceans that proved a sophisticated alternative to the classic Super Bowl amenity.

For entrees, we had the already mentioned Sole Francese, which was tender, buttery and delicate on a bed of spinach and served with sweet potato fries. The fries, while tasty, could have been hotter and crispier and did not quite live up to the elegance of the dish. In fact the only criticism I had in general was that all the main courses could have been served hotter, but this is a minor negative.

Shrimp Scampi Linguini was perfectly cooked, with garlicky, oily and super fresh shrimps complemented by a perfectly al dente pasta and tomato laced sauce.

But my favorite dish of the evening was the seared jumbo shrimp (scallops were on the menu but were not available at market today so shrimp was substituted to marvelous effect) with mushroom risotto. Pearly and creamy mushroom risotto, silky and salty, was perfectly cooked and matched beautifully with the seared shrimps. Very satisfying.

For dessert, we all opted for the same choice (as did most diners tonight, I observed) and enjoyed the luscious Chocolate Marquis, a mousse-like concoction on a bed of dense devil’s food cake that was rich, creamy and enough to satisfy any chocoholics cravings.

Morgans Fish House may be about to undergo exciting changes, but it is already a first class seafood emporium that we are fortunate to have in Rye. The Restaurant Week menu available this year is entirely satisfying and a terrific bargain, and the main menu remains as varied, interesting and exciting as ever. Change is good, however, and we wish the owners and staff the best of luck with the changes coming to Morgan’s, white sneakers and all.

The 411 on Morgans Fish House.

Photo Caption: Seafood Chowder