One of the great things about Hudson Valley Restaurant Week is that it encourages trying new restaurants. The ones that are just a bit farther than you might typically travel for dinner. Driving from the Lewisboro town line, Hastings-on-Hudson is a 50-minute hike. But the cool cocktails, crispy soft boiled egg and melt-in-your-mouth hanger steak at Saint George Bistro made it all worth it.
The setting at Saint George is a mix between Prohibition-chic and French bistro. It’s the kind of place that would suit an Ernest Hemingway type nicely, or be right at home in an episode of the now defunct HBO series “Bored to Death.”
Obvious effort was put into assembling the all-French wine list, which is broken down into wine regions. But the real star of our meal was the cocktails. We liked the Dock Street cocktail, made with bourbon, fresh squeezed grapefruit and winter spices. The menu also advertises an absinthe fountain, which we begrudgingly decided to save for our next visit.
Servers are an assembly of charming hipsters, knowledgeable and informative about the heavily French menu, and eager to offer personal recommendations from the restaurant week menu, which features several items not currently available on the regular dinner menu.
The frisée salad comes with jambon, crispy soft boiled egg and a spoonful of grainy mustard. The egg was perfect cooked— warm and crunchy on the outside, gooey and rich on the inside.
Mouclade, a dish that seems to pop up on bistro menus less frequently than moules mariniere, was creamy, rich and full of warming curry— a welcome twist on the French classic that feels more appropriate for the cold weather. And the good news? Unlike some of the other restaurant week selections, mouclade also appears on the regular menu.
Hanger steak was perfectly cooked, slightly charred but tender and juicy. Sauce options included bordelaise, maître d’hotel butter and béarnaise, and the compound butter did not disappoint. But really, does it ever?
Desserts were profiteroles, the last two of the night according to our server. Not surprisingly, there’s a reason this was the most popular dessert of the evening. Flaky pastry surrounding creamy vanilla ice cream and topped with a dark chocolate ganache.
Saint George Bistro is a lovely addition to the Lower Hudson Valley restaurant scene. If there are any Ernest Hemingway types out there, make your reservations now because on a cold Wednesday night in November, every table was full.
If you go…
Saint George Bistro, 155 Southside Ave., Hastings-on-Hudson, 914-478-1671, www.saintgeorgebistro.com.